Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Tokaj Lapis Furmint 2009



Tokaj Lapis Furmint 2009 
from Bodrog Bormuhely

Terroir, the birthplace - a mirror of the vineyard through soil, topography and climate - of the fermented grape juice in our bottle. With a faithful oenologist, who has enough respect for nature, who has enough knowledge on his field it can be recognized through his work in the cellar. 
Single vineyard collections are only brought out by the winemakers at very special vintages or/and more often from a  designated area within the cultivated vineyards where a particular wine can be produced holding recognizable virtue or characteristics to its origin.


The Lapis is the South West- South facing vineyard's of Bodrogkeresztur within the Tokaj Historical Wine Region.  A not too steep slope covered by the Zemplen mountain from the North, while at its foot opens up for the river Bodrog and its flood plain. Due to this spatial location is characterized by a unique microclimate. Hot air trapped in by the arms of the mountain at summer time, while fall is extremely humid and moist, providing perfect conditions for the appearance of Botrytis cinarea also known as noble rot. 
The soil is a particular mixture of brown clay and rhyolite tuff; reflects its minerality in the wine greatly.
2009 was an exceptional year for the dry Tokajis and in most Hungarian wine regions,too; even though the summer was extremely hot and fall arrived with heavy showers not giving too much chance for the botryis to develop, we still been able to create some outstanding Tokajis. In this vintage the fully ripen and tropical fruit aromas are to dominate in the vino, while a few winemakers gave upon the tradition and did not use oak too much or at all and created a very mineral, refreshing lighter style the boys from Bodrog Bormuhely sticked to their guns. 
 
Only 1630 bottles have been made each year of this single vineyard Furmint and each year an experience, a tour of the slope to discover what nature or the terroir capable to show us.

This 100% furmint is a stout, complex in your face wine; 
I would recommend to have a sip at opening the bottle and 
I know it will sound strange to do with a dry white wine 
but decant the wine for 20-30 minutes, and you will praise 
my name for giving you this tip.  The wine will become 
meek and softens up to a juicy nectar. Yes, we are talking 
about a dry wine, but the aroma diversity has a  wide scale 
from the first sip to when its decanted.

At first it has a clear straw yellow colour with green rim, the William's pear juicy aromas consorted by  jammy quince apple and loads of minerality there in the nose already. With a bit of swirling and breathing  fruit aromas are beginning to change and kiwi, gooseberry, cantaloupe with stone fruits are stepping out of our glass. On the palate not prevalent but there is noticeable wood, of course it was aged in Szerednyei oak barrels for 9 months. The fruity aromas of pear quince kiwi and loads of citrus are getting fare amount of flint via its minerality actually able taste some gunpowderish hints on top of my palate. The acidity a bit vivid and snappy, the 12.5% alcohol perfect to this medium bodied fruity salty beauty and does not stands out.

I would like to put this wine away for another 2-3 years simply to get in to a greater balance because the brisk acidity but it is ready for consumption and I have a sample bottle with me here in Trinidad if you wish to taste one of the best single vineyard Tokaji Furmints of 2009.

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