Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Tokaj Lapis Furmint 2009



Tokaj Lapis Furmint 2009 
from Bodrog Bormuhely

Terroir, the birthplace - a mirror of the vineyard through soil, topography and climate - of the fermented grape juice in our bottle. With a faithful oenologist, who has enough respect for nature, who has enough knowledge on his field it can be recognized through his work in the cellar. 
Single vineyard collections are only brought out by the winemakers at very special vintages or/and more often from a  designated area within the cultivated vineyards where a particular wine can be produced holding recognizable virtue or characteristics to its origin.


The Lapis is the South West- South facing vineyard's of Bodrogkeresztur within the Tokaj Historical Wine Region.  A not too steep slope covered by the Zemplen mountain from the North, while at its foot opens up for the river Bodrog and its flood plain. Due to this spatial location is characterized by a unique microclimate. Hot air trapped in by the arms of the mountain at summer time, while fall is extremely humid and moist, providing perfect conditions for the appearance of Botrytis cinarea also known as noble rot. 
The soil is a particular mixture of brown clay and rhyolite tuff; reflects its minerality in the wine greatly.
2009 was an exceptional year for the dry Tokajis and in most Hungarian wine regions,too; even though the summer was extremely hot and fall arrived with heavy showers not giving too much chance for the botryis to develop, we still been able to create some outstanding Tokajis. In this vintage the fully ripen and tropical fruit aromas are to dominate in the vino, while a few winemakers gave upon the tradition and did not use oak too much or at all and created a very mineral, refreshing lighter style the boys from Bodrog Bormuhely sticked to their guns. 
 
Only 1630 bottles have been made each year of this single vineyard Furmint and each year an experience, a tour of the slope to discover what nature or the terroir capable to show us.

This 100% furmint is a stout, complex in your face wine; 
I would recommend to have a sip at opening the bottle and 
I know it will sound strange to do with a dry white wine 
but decant the wine for 20-30 minutes, and you will praise 
my name for giving you this tip.  The wine will become 
meek and softens up to a juicy nectar. Yes, we are talking 
about a dry wine, but the aroma diversity has a  wide scale 
from the first sip to when its decanted.

At first it has a clear straw yellow colour with green rim, the William's pear juicy aromas consorted by  jammy quince apple and loads of minerality there in the nose already. With a bit of swirling and breathing  fruit aromas are beginning to change and kiwi, gooseberry, cantaloupe with stone fruits are stepping out of our glass. On the palate not prevalent but there is noticeable wood, of course it was aged in Szerednyei oak barrels for 9 months. The fruity aromas of pear quince kiwi and loads of citrus are getting fare amount of flint via its minerality actually able taste some gunpowderish hints on top of my palate. The acidity a bit vivid and snappy, the 12.5% alcohol perfect to this medium bodied fruity salty beauty and does not stands out.

I would like to put this wine away for another 2-3 years simply to get in to a greater balance because the brisk acidity but it is ready for consumption and I have a sample bottle with me here in Trinidad if you wish to taste one of the best single vineyard Tokaji Furmints of 2009.

The fragrant lady of Tokaj


               The fragrant lady of Tokaj

       Clear, light and crispy but very elegant vino for the summer!

Forget whatever you think you already knew about Tokajis, as it will open another dimension for you on the subject!

A direct wine with her fresh crunchy ripen grape aromas dominating over the peach, orange, mango notes with floral hints from the Muscat grape. This is Tokaj's playful and cheeky answer for the upcoming Moscato madness. 

Very refreshing with its explicit acidity, the drop of residual sugar brings great balance, the finish is there to stay on your palate for a long while and will force you to have some more of this beautiful wine.
She would pair perfectly with light creole dishes - ital ( rasta ) dishes, fruit or vegetable salad and seafood. 
Gentlemen, Erzsebet Pince's Muscat Lunee is the romantic meals and moments' secret weapon, don't be shy to use it!
Food pairing: I have chosen the grilled Zemplen Orda with fresh mixed salad sprayed with Tokaji Moscato balsamic vinegar; a super-yummy, light summer dish, fantastic with this vino.
 
( Orda is a fresh white cheese made from whey of sheep, goat or cow by the people living in the basin of the Carpathians . It is produced by heating the whey resulting from the draining of any type of cheese. It is often made into molds to the shape of a half sphere. The paste is finely grained, silky and palatable. )

A great choice to bring her to the beach, fetes; she is the ultimate party wine.  Serve her chilled ( 10C ), perfect to enjoy under the hot Caribbean sun!




I hope I will be able to bring her to your favourite restaurants in the West Indies.
 
Please get in touch with me if you wish to taste this beauty in Trinidad!

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

From the land of Paprika to the Caribbean


From the land of Paprika to the Caribbean

Those who reads my blog probably knows by now, I am from Hungary and I am always on the move, usually in and out or residing in the beautiful island of Trinidad in the Caribbean. This is my 4th return to the island of Steel Pan, Calypso, Carnival, and Papa Bois; heat, sweat and crazy drivers. 

I always bring some special items from home with me, usually the fruity but fiery Palinka brandies - this time I got some home made 63% strong in alcohol: strawberry, quence apple, and gypsy cherry palinkas. These drinks are not flavoured like those "absolutely" fancy bottled vodkas you can buy, these drinks are made of 100% fruits, hand picked, by my family or friends 100% organic gear, 100%bio. 
Also important for me to have a few  bottles of fine vino on me, to introduce and show my hometown's World famous whites, have a sip on the flavourful reds of Eger, wash down the dinner with the powerful complex wines of Villany. These three wine regions are the closest to my heart  from the 22 Hungarian wine regions. Such small country with such big wine culture. 

Yes, we Hungarians love our wines, accompanying our meals, used as the refreshing Froccs ( spritzer) sitting outside the veranda or the bench by  the fence of our houses; we love our wines, and we are proud of our wine culture. There is an obvious reason for that but do not even try to get there this time. 

Hungary is called the land of Paprika, our sweet and hot capsicums are World famous especially because our flavourful spicy traditional cuisine based upon the use of the different varieties we grow back home. 
Capsicum probably travelled with my ancestors through the great steppes when we were heading to the Carpathians on our horses and met and mixed with all sort of different folks.

Every family in the countryside grows and makes their own paprika sauces, powders to be used in their meals, seasoning up our home made sausages,etc, Sometimes you can see houses covered in hanged paprika branches, to dry in the windy hot air. 

To me and every Hungarians anything without paprika is just not correct, or normal; without our Hungarian sausages -kolbasz - and salamis for breakfast or dinner will uprise. Yes there is more in Europe than Spanish Chorizos and Italian Pepperonis, we Hungarian also do our own sausages salamis, hams,etc. We usually use pork, beef and horse meat, smoke it and let it mature in an old shed for a while. We also do black, red and white puddings or hurka as we call it, and yes the peppers or paprika used in the seasoning is the one being responsible for the colour and name,too. 
I brought some very small amount of home made kolbasz with me to Trinidad; if i can organize a little tasting show with the local food bloggers I will let them have a slice. It was made last year and the THING about it is that we poured a great big bottle of sweet Tokaji Szamorodni on the meat to be marinated in it, before seasoning up for the sausage.
I fried up freshly and the wine's aromas frankly hit my nose from the pan; when it got smoked and matured for months in our shed this vino hint got lost its intense character, but still has a bit of exotic hints from the Szamorodni. On the back of my palate i can clearly recall the botrytis strong dominating fungal impressions.





Today we did not cook anything for lunch so I fixed up some bits and bites for myself:




I have a little bit of "golden red" paprika sauce in our fridge, it is a mix of different Hungarian paprikas, and a very tasty sauce, I always add a teaspoon amount to my goulash as well and even use it to make my scrambled eggs tastier; or as my Trini fiancee stated to make it look like bloody pieces of brain. The sauce itself available in sweet and hot; i like to use the sweet version as i am kinda allergic for the over spicy and ultra hot gear. It has a very delicate flavour coming from the different mix of paprikas, its sweetness takes off the smokiness of the kolbasz. I used some local Trini cheddar cheese, not because this is the cheese i wanted to use, but I was lazy to get off my arse and go buy some. We Hungarians are love our paprikas, sausages, and wines, but let me confirm this: we love onions, garlic and all as bad as the above mentioned stuff, too.  So i picked some garlic and sliced them up to use it on top of my kolbasz  slices and add some extras to this mid day home made delight. If I would not be that lazy as I was this additional garlic would have been pickled ones. 
..and that is when the wine offer would have been different compare to those I have on my mind right now:
 I was fortunate to spend a bit of time with the island's wine man, Mr Joseph E Fernandes and be his apprentice, helping out in his West Mall based fine wine and spirit shop. He has an outstanding collection of wines from all over the World and I admire the man's knowledge on the subject. So I have picked this "super" Portuguese blend from Fernandes Fine Wine collection;           MEIA PIPA PRIVATE COLLECTION 2000 and 2006. Yes, we are talking about the same wine, but from different vintages and blends. Both wines are under TTD150 and I would suggest to fellow wine lovers to buy both bottles and sample them. The 2000 is a two grape blend; Castelao is a local variety, also known as Periquita, and sometimes used in Port making,too but mostly planted in the Terras do Sado regions DOC Peninsula de Setubal subregion.  Castelao in its youth gives heavily tannic wines, with the additional Cabernet Sauvignon it is better to let it sit for a while in the cellar. Great ageing potential these two grape varieties both have. The 13 years old Luzitan beauty needed the rest to show its great potential. Two heavy weight champion were blended in here. I am sure the vintage 2006 can also surprise its samplers. As I was not able to taste the wines yet, I have looked upon others tasting notes. It made me curious about these wines. Most of the tasting notes are stating intensive red fruit aromas and spicy peppery notes, mint and round, soften tannin. Also I saw that the blend varies but as i am experiencing some electronic cracking down on my devices to be able to write this post took me half a day, used a laptop, and two PCs and still far away from finishing up. So the blend changes and the wine makers bought another Portugal variety, Aragonez and the Syrah grape into the Meia Pipa Private Collection. Fellow Trini food and wine lovers, let's get together and do a Portugal vino night.

The second wine came to my mind chewing on my Hungarian kolbasz was the Chilean Errazuriz winery' Syrah Max Reserva 2010. I tasted and had a tasting event based on this wine one weekend in England at my previous job. This is when we step upon higher levels, not the usual  cork screw top, cheap bottle of new world wines jammy easy drinking medium bodied reds...it has beef inside...if not, pour on some while you cooking it!Errazuriz available in Trinidad through Hadco. They have some super Chilean reds as well but I did not wanted to go over the top, I was only eating some backyard sausage and cheap cheese. This Syrah is my favourite from the medium level and medium priced Max Reserva collection. The present of subtle oak and gentle tannin holds the wine together from the background, this heavy bodied Syrah bangs through your palate with its spicy robust black berry aromas, the intensive fruit notes  are dominating with plenty of pepper on top. Long finish, fantastic wine, would destroy the weak cheddar's flavours but luckily I had something different in my glass today.
As I said earlier, I always bring some Hungarian wines with myself, so did this time. I have brought very special bottles of wines with me this time. One of them, the only red actually is Lajos Hagymasi oenologist's unfiltered Kadarka from Eger Historical Wine Region. I still have a bottle left to sample with you Trini food and lovers. Eger was founded about 1004 by  monks, who were sent by  our first Christian king, I. ( Saint ) Istvan. The king ordered them to found a monastery in the town of Eger, to found the North Eastern Episcopate, with the monks arrival the wine making arrived to the area,too.


Kadarka is a Hungarian grape variety, perfect to accompany our paprika based  local cuisine. The grape arrived to my country with the Serbs who fled the Hungarian Kingdom running from the Ottoman Empire in the early 1400s. Its grape and juice itself very dark in colour, gives medium to full bodied wines with dark colour, black cherry and black berries as primary fruit aromas with recognizable sweet and spicy notes.  Its character immediately recognizable via its deep rich aromas.Once it was the main grape variety in our iconic blend, the Egri Bikaver or Bull's Blood. Please do not think about  Torres' Sangre Del Torro just because in Spanish it means the same, nothing to compare in it to our Bull's Blood. This 2011 Kadarka is a fantastic red to pair with heavy spicy meaty dishes, it s got a Gold award from the Hungarian Wine judges and not for its label design. As soon as you pour the wine into your glass the typical Kadarka characters slap you in the face, really dark cherry colour, and playful aromas with a bunch of spices, this wine is on fire! Its cheerful acidity gives a great spine to the body to hold the rich fruit notes on the palate, 13.5% alcohol quite warming but the wine is in balance nothing stands out, all in great order! This wine will take anybody for a Csardas! Unfortunately none of my Hungarian wines available in Trinidad, I am still looking for a partner or local distributor to come into business with me. You can order Hungarian wines from the Puerto Rican based Hungaricum LLC or from the England based Hungarian Wine House or contact me if you would like to sample some of my private collection here in Trinidad. Until that we have the Hungarian wines available here we have plenty of good vinos to taste from Fernandes, Vintage Imports, Hadco, Naughty Grape, and Amco...see ya at the tastings!